What to Do When Fertile Quail or Chicken Eggs Arrive in the Mail
Your First 24 Hours With Shipped Fertile Quail or Chicken Eggs
There’s a quiet pause when a box of fertile eggs arrives from the USPS.
You open the flaps, peel back the packing, and suddenly you’re holding something that looks simple—but isn’t. These eggs have traveled through temperature swings, vibration, pressure changes, and constant motion. They’re alive, but they’re stressed.
What you do in the first 24 hours can make a real difference.
This guide walks you through what to do—and what not to do—when fertile quail or chicken eggs arrive by mail.
Step 1: Open the Box Gently and Inspect Carefully
Unwrap each egg slowly and place it aside as you go. Take your time here; this is not a step to rush.
It’s normal to see:
- Larger-than-expected air cells
- Minor shell scuffs or surface marks
- Condensation if eggs arrived cold
None of these automatically mean an egg won’t hatch.
Remove any egg that is actively leaking contents, has a strong odor, or shows clear rupture of the inner membrane. These eggs are unlikely to hatch and can introduce bacteria that may affect the rest of the clutch.
Shell cracks vary widely in severity. Some eggs with visible cracks still hatch successfully if the inner membrane remains intact and the egg is not leaking. Others won’t. At this stage, the key factor isn’t how the shell looks—it’s whether the egg is losing moisture or exposed internally.
When in doubt, questionable eggs can be set separately and monitored closely.
Step 2: Repairing a Lightly Cracked Egg with Wax (Optional)
This step is optional and should only be considered for minor hairline cracks where the inner membrane is intact and the egg is not leaking.
Wax repair does not restore an egg to full strength. It simply helps slow moisture loss and reduce contamination risk. Hatch rates for repaired eggs are typically lower, but some do hatch successfully.
How to seal a small crack using wax:
- Clean and dry the shell. Gently remove debris with a dry paper towel. Do not wash the egg or introduce moisture.
- Melt a small amount of plain wax. Unscented candle wax or beeswax works well. Melt only a small amount—warm enough to be liquid, not hot.
- Apply wax sparingly. Use a toothpick or small applicator to place a thin layer directly over the crack. Do not coat the entire egg or allow wax to pool.
- Allow the wax to harden. This usually takes just a few seconds. Once set, the egg can be rested and incubated with the others.
Important cautions:
- Never seal eggs that are leaking
- Never seal eggs with large fractures or crushed areas
- Monitor sealed eggs closely during incubation
Think of wax repair as a last-resort effort, not a guaranteed fix.
Step 3: Rest the Eggs (This Is Critical)
Resting shipped eggs is one of the most important—and most often skipped—steps.
Place eggs pointy end down in a carton or tray and let them rest:
- 12–24 hours
- At room temperature (65–75°F)
- No turning
- Not in the incubator yet
Shipping can displace the internal air cell. Resting allows it to settle back into place before incubation begins. Skipping this step often leads to poor hatch rates, even when everything else is done correctly.
If eggs arrived very cold, allow them to slowly warm to room temperature before starting the rest period.
Step 4: Prepare the Incubator While the Eggs Rest
Your incubator should already be running while the eggs rest.
Before setting eggs, confirm:
- The incubator is clean and dry
- Temperature has stabilized for several hours
- Airflow is unobstructed
Temperature basics (forced-air incubators):
- Chicken eggs: ~99.5°F
- Quail eggs: ~99.5–100°F
A note on humidity and built-in gauges:
Not all incubators accurately retain or report temperature and humidity using their built-in displays—especially smaller or entry-level models.
Using a separate hygrometer/thermometer placed at egg level is strongly recommended. Many hatch issues trace back to inaccurate internal readings rather than true environmental problems.
Stability matters more than chasing perfect numbers.
Step 5: Candling After Rest (Optional)
Once eggs have completed their rest period, candling is optional.
Candling may reveal:
- Severely detached air cells
- Obvious internal damage
Irregular air cells are common with shipped eggs and don’t automatically mean failure. Many eggs with imperfect air cells still hatch successfully.
If you’re new to hatching, skipping candling entirely is perfectly acceptable.
Step 6: Turning Matters—Avoid These Styles
Turning is essential, but how eggs are turned matters—especially for shipped eggs.
Turning styles to avoid:
- Aggressive rocking or rolling turners
- Fast or abrupt tilt mechanisms
- Inconsistent hand-turning schedules
Better options:
- Gentle automatic turners with slow, consistent motion
- Smooth tilt systems that change angle gradually
- Horizontal placement with even rotation
Step 7: Lockdown — What It Is and Why It Matters
Lockdown refers to the final stage of incubation, when eggs are preparing to hatch.
Typical timing:
- Chicken eggs: around day 18
- Quail eggs: around day 14–15
During lockdown:
- Stop turning the eggs
- Increase humidity per your incubator’s guidelines
- Avoid opening the incubator
At this stage, chicks position themselves for hatching. Sudden humidity drops can make it harder for them to finish the process.
Step 8: Early Hatchers, Late Hatchers, and Feeding
It’s very common for some chicks or quail to hatch earlier than others.
Newly hatched birds do not need food or water immediately. Healthy chicks and quail can remain in the incubator for 24–48 hours after hatching, living off the absorbed yolk from the egg.
Leaving early hatchers in the incubator is usually the best option. Removing them too soon often requires opening the incubator, which can disrupt eggs that are still hatching.
Only remove hatchlings early if they are at risk of injury or being excessively disturbed.
A Realistic Note About Shipped Eggs
Even with ideal care, shipped fertile eggs carry risk.
Hatch rates can be affected by weather during transit, postal handling, distance traveled, and egg age before shipment.
A lower hatch rate doesn’t automatically mean something went wrong. Sometimes success is one strong chick or quail that beat the odds.
Gone Broody Fertile Egg Policy: No Hatch Guarantee
All fertile eggs sold by Gone Broody are sold as fertile eggs only. Due to the many uncontrollable variables involved in shipping and incubation, there is no hatch guarantee on fertile eggs.
Gone Broody does not offer refunds, partial refunds, store credits, or replacements for unsuccessful hatches. We do not evaluate incubation methods, request hatch photos, or assess hatch rates. Any shipping damage must be addressed directly with USPS.
Purchasing fertile eggs acknowledges and accepts this risk.
One Last Thought
Shipped eggs arrive quiet and unassuming, but they’ve already endured a rough journey.
The best thing you can give them isn’t perfection—it’s steadiness, patience, and restraint.
Let them rest. Set them carefully. Then step back and give them the space to do what nature intended.